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Export of Organic Textiles under Indian Law: Legal Framework and Regulatory Compliance

YAGAY andSUN
India's Legal Rules for Exporting Certified Organic Textiles Under NPOP, GOTS, and Customs Laws India regulates the export of organic textiles through a comprehensive legal framework involving domestic laws, foreign trade policies, and international certification standards. Organic textiles must be certified by bodies accredited under the National Programme for Organic Production (NPOP) or recognized international standards such as GOTS or OCS. Exporters must register with the Directorate General of Foreign Trade, classify products correctly, obtain valid organic certification, and comply with customs and labeling requirements. The NPOP accreditation does not cover organic textiles; thus, exporters must secure transaction certificates from certification bodies designated by Textile Exchange or GOTS as required by buyers. Non-compliance or misrepresentation can result in penalties under Indian customs laws and de-accreditation. Exporters must also adhere to destination country regulations, including those of the EU, US, UK, and Canada. The legal regime supports sustainable trade while emphasizing certification integrity, ethical labor, and environmental standards throughout the supply chain. (AI Summary)

India, as one of the largest producers of organic cotton globally, holds a significant position in the international organic textile market. The export of organic textiles from India is governed by a multifaceted legal and regulatory framework that ensures compliance with international organic standards while facilitating trade through structured certification and monitoring mechanisms. This framework is anchored in domestic laws, foreign trade policy instruments, and internationally recognized certification protocols.

Definition and Scope of Organic Textiles

'Organic textiles' refer to textile products made from organically grown raw materials, primarily organic cotton, and processed in compliance with standards that prohibit the use of synthetic pesticides, genetically modified organisms (GMOs), and hazardous chemicals. The organic status of such textiles must be verifiable through third-party certification against recognized organic standards, such as the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) and Organic Content Standard (OCS).

Regulatory and Statutory Framework

The export of organic textiles from India is primarily regulated under the following statutory and policy instruments:

1Foreign Trade (Development and Regulation) Act, 1992 (FTDR Act):
Under Section 5 of the FTDR Act, the Central Government formulates the Foreign Trade Policy (FTP), which governs the export of all goods, including organic textiles. The ITC (HS) Code under the FTP categorizes textile products, and the relevant codes for organic textiles must be identified for export purposes.

2Foreign Trade Policy (2023–2028):
The current FTP emphasizes the promotion of sustainable and value-added exports. Organic textile exporters may avail of benefits such as duty exemption schemes, Market Access Initiative (MAI), and support under Brand India initiatives.

3. Agricultural and Processed Food Products Export Development Authority (APEDA):
APEDA, under the Ministry of Commerce and Industry, functions as the nodal agency for the promotion and certification of organic products, including textiles made from organic agricultural inputs. It operates the National Programme for Organic Production (NPOP), which lays down procedures for accreditation of certification bodies and organic standards for exports.

4. Certification Requirements:
Organic textiles intended for export must be certified by bodies accredited under NPOP or by certification agencies recognized under international organic standards (e.g., GOTS, OCS). GOTS certification is often mandatory for exports to the EU, US, and other major markets.

5. Textile Export Promotion Councils:
Exporters of organic textiles are also supported by councils such as the Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council (TEXPROCIL) and the Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC), which facilitate market access, trade fairs, and compliance advisory services.

Export Procedure and Compliance

The procedural aspects of exporting organic textiles involve the following key steps:

  • Registration with DGFT through the Importer-Exporter Code (IEC).
  • Product classification under the correct ITC (HS) code.
  • Obtaining organic certification from accredited bodies under NPOP/GOTS.
  • Filing of shipping bills with customs authorities, with declaration of organic status.
  • Adherence to labeling and packaging standards as per destination country norms.
  • Participation in quality control inspections, if applicable under the Export Inspection Council (EIC) norms.

Customs authorities may require certification documents to validate the organic status of the consignment. Any misrepresentation or false claim regarding organic content may lead to penal action under the Customs Act, 1962 and may trigger de-accreditation by the certifying body.

International Legal Considerations

Exporters must also remain compliant with the destination country’s organic labeling and textile safety laws. For instance:

  • European Union: Regulation (EU) 2018/848 governs organic production and labeling. GOTS certification is widely accepted.
  • United States: USDA’s National Organic Program (NOP) is applicable to organic agricultural products. Though textiles are not directly regulated under NOP, GOTS-certified products are accepted in the market.
  • United Kingdom and Canada: Similar regulatory frameworks exist, and GOTS or OCS certification is often considered a minimum requirement.

Legal Challenges and Risks

Exporters of organic textiles face several legal and operational risks, including:

  • Certification Fraud: Exporting non-organic textiles under the guise of organic labels can lead to customs seizure, cancellation of licenses, blacklisting by importing countries, and prosecution under Indian penal and customs laws.
  • Non-compliance with labor and environmental norms: Exporters must ensure compliance not only with organic standards but also with ethical labor practices and environmental norms, particularly when certified under GOTS or other social-compliance linked schemes.

Conclusion

The export of organic textiles from India is supported by a well-defined legal and institutional framework that facilitates access to global markets while ensuring compliance with international organic standards. Exporters must strictly adhere to certification protocols, maintain transparent supply chains, and comply with both Indian and foreign regulations. With increasing global demand for sustainable and environmentally responsible products, Indian exporters stand to benefit significantly, provided they ensure legal and ethical compliance throughout the value chain.

***

Annexure – 1

Government of India

Ministry of Commerce & Industry

Department of Commerce

Directorate General of Foreign Trade

Policy Circular No. 1/2025-26

Dated: July 15, 2025

To,

1. All Regional Authorities of DGFT

2. All Customs Commissionerates

3. Members of Trade & Industry

Subject: Clarification regarding Export of 'Organic Textiles' - regarding.

Sir/Madam,

Reference is invited to the Public Notice No. 39/2024-25 dated January 05, 2025 whereby the Eighth Edition of the National Programme for Organic Production (NPOP) was notified.

2. In this regard, requests for clarification have been received from various stakeholders including exporters and Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC) regarding applicability of the said Public Notice on the exports of organic textiles.

2.1. The matter has been taken up with Agricultural and Processed Food Products Export Development Authority (APEDA), which is implementing the NPOP under the Ministry of Commerce & Industry, Government of India.

3. APEDA has clarified that as per Clause 4.1 of Chapter 4 of the said edition, the scope of accreditation is limited to specific categories, namely:

(i) Crop Production

(ii) Livestock, Poultry and Products

(iii) Beekeeping / Apiculture

(iv) Aquaculture Production

(v) Food Processing & Handling

(vi) Animal Feed Processing & Handling

(vii) Mushroom Production

(viii) Seaweed, Aquatic Plants and Greenhouse crop production, and,

(ix) Any other categories as approved under the NPOP from time to time.

3.1. In view of the above, it has been highlighted that organic textiles do not fall within the ambit of accreditation categories prescribed under the NPOP. Therefore, the requirement of a Transaction Certificate (TC) from a NAB-accredited body under the said Public Notice does not apply to exports of Organic textile products.

4. It may further be noted that for exports of organic textiles, the exporters need to furnish a valid Transaction certificate (TC) issued by the certification bodies designated through Textile Exchange, Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) or as mandated by the buyer(s) at the time of export.

This Circular is issued with the approval of competent authority.

(Pratibha Kumari)

Deputy Director General of Foreign Trade

E-mail: [email protected]

Tel: 011-2303 8759

(Issued from F. No. 01/91/171/009/AM23/EC-31782)

***

Annexure – 2

Government of India

Ministry of Commerce and Industry

Department of Commerce

Directorate General of Foreign Trade

Vanijya Bhawan, New Delhi

Public Notice No. 39/2024-25

Dated the 5th January, 2025

Subject: Procedure for export of certified organic products.

In exercise of the powers conferred under para 1.03 and 2.04 of the Foreign Trade Policy, 2023 as amended time to time, the Director General of Foreign Trade hereby lays down the following procedure for export of certified organic products, in supersession of earlier Public Notice No. 73 (RE-2013)/2009-2014 dated 18.11.2014 and Public Notice No. 10/2015-2020 dated 05.05.2015:

(i)  'Organic Products' for export shall only be certified as such if Produced, Processed, Packed and labelled as per the standards laid down in the document 'National Programme for Organic Production (NPOP)', available on the website of APEDA www.apeda.gov.in as amended from time to time.

(ii) A product will be allowed to be exported as 'Organic Product' only when accompanied by a Transaction Certificate (TC) issued by a Certification Body accredited by the National Accreditation Body (NAB) for Organic Products under the National Programme for Organic Production (NPOP) of the Department of Commerce.

(iii) The 8th edition of the NPOP shall come into force with effect from 180 days from the date of issuance of this notification.

2. Effect of this Public Notice: Procedure for export of Certified Organic Products has been notified. This supersedes the earlier Public Notice No. 73 (RE-2013)/2009-2014 dated 18.11.2014 and Public Notice No. 10/2015-2020 dated 05.05.2015. 

(Santosh Kumar Sarangi)

Director General of Foreign Trade

Ex-Officio Additional Secretary to the Government of India

E-mail: [email protected]

(Issued from F. No. 01/91/180/190/AM15/Export Cell)

***

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